Home ground Tail baila

22:00, Thursday, 7^th Apr 2016. After a satisfactory dinner at Annapurna restaurant, we parked our vehicle at the Lonavla bus station and were waiting for Jayant to come who had agreed to reach there by 22:30. And he did come. But not before 1:15 AM. Needless to say, he was greeted with an overwhelmingly touching ovation.

At 2:30 in the night, Tailbaila dyke looked as stunning as it always. And we were glad that we were the only mad minds who skipped Gudipadva celebration at homes and came to this lonely place for climbing. Generally our hosts are a pack of monkeys from whom keeping our luggage secured is an adventure in itself. But today even they seemed to be on vacation on the eve of the festive day.

At 6:55 AM, after snacks of a few dark chocolates and black tea, Sanket and I set forth on the easiest route (left inner). Although the route was easy but we had a different plan in mind. Simultaneous climbing. Which means, no belay. We had 10-12 m rope and at least 3 protections (quick draws) in between us. Within 30 min we reached at the top. We realized that it could have been a lot faster had the rope length short. We assessed our shortcomings as well as strengths during the climb and quickly made arrangement for rappelling. It was a different challenge to rappel this time. Too much of winds. Loose rock. You throw the rappel line in a direction you wish to, but it would always either get drifted or get entangled somewhere in between. We decided to rappel anyway. As I went down, I kept removing the twists, realigning the rope in a desired direction and ultimately reached middle station where I anchored the rope for Sanket’s rappel. Here, I must mention the importance of usage of prussic cord. Had it been not put in the implementation, it would have been nearly impossible to clear the rope at an overhanging section. So, here’s my gentle advice to the budding climbers, never forget prussic cord (below the rappel device) while repelling.  

Meanwhile, Jayant and Dinesh were battling on right inner wall. Duo were attempting the route for the first time and Dinesh was a newbie in lead climbing. Still both had completed the first section very well. But they were a bit slow. So, Sanket and I went quickly to the first station and decided to change the pairs. Jayant had already moved up to station two. Sanket replaced Dinesh and with his amazingly gymnastic climbing skills, he embarked with a rapid dyno for a first hand hold and within next 10 minutes, reached to station 2.  As the first pair continued moving toward final station, I began leading from station 1 with Dinesh on belay. The route was a bit scary with some stretchy moves and not so friendly holds. Fiercely raging winds and a sharp drop behind were frightening. I was a bit nervous. But every time I got scared there, I always thought of Everest 1996 tragedy. Not about those who scared and lost their minds and never came back; but of the man who stood tall, braving every odds of the blizzard and managed to rescue climbers back to the camp four. Anatoli Boukreev. I realised that being scared is ok. That will keep you conscious and won’t let the complacency creep in. What is not ok is losing the self-confidence and will to march forward.

As I and Dinesh reached station 2, Sanket and Jayant began to rappel down. We had a brilliant communication system between all four of us. Thanks to Sanket for his persistence for carrying the walkie talkies! It not only saved our crucial time but also helped us make on the spot vital decisions. Not to forget the light moments while relying on the self-anchors, when Dinesh’s legendary commentary made us laugh and we forgot our fear factors briefly.

Soon I reached the top where Jayant was preparing for his rappel. As Dinesh reached the top, he looked pleased to have completed the difficult route. He did a self-realization that he must do more training and practice rope work more. there are no short cuts. No free rides. No luck factors. Your destiny is in your hand. You train, you shine. You don’t, you succumb.

(1. Dinesh readying for a rappelling. 2. Jayant and I at right inner top)

After yet another difficult rappelling session, we took a short break and replenished our calorific and hydration levels. It was just 11:45 AM and Sanket and I were happy to have finished two routes in less than five hours.

Two more to go. One the toughest (right outer) and one unexplored (left outer). Jayant and I decided to take on the right outer. Jayant was leading here for the first time. With every QD he clipped, he seemed more confident. His altitude phobia was vanishing and he was able to give his best. As for me, having done this route twice, I felt not only confident but was racing upward. In just 13 min. I reached the station. With hifi claps, I switched to leading and rushed to next station. Jayant followed.

(Jayant leading on right outer)

Station 2. Here was a real test.  Steep vertical wall with crimpy and loose rocks above, 150 ft drop below and intense winds. I was prepared mentally. I began. Jayant took on belay and Sanket, who had earlier attempted the route bravely, but had to retreat, was guiding us on walkie talkie. (Sanket had I were attempting this last patch 2 months ago. Sanket had led the route. And he gave up in the middle after having clipped more than 6 QDs. It was pretty commendable but because he got scared of loose rock, steep height and gave up in the end, we always made fun of him. Now being in his situation, I understand how difficult it was.) As I latched on to the rock face, it became clear that my physical limitations both height and strength would fall short towards this goal. I tried for around half an hour, at once fell too but couldn’t move beyond first QD. I tried to go a bit off the route but the rope drag pulled me down. Efforts were going in vein. Time was running out and I didn’t want to waste it anymore on me. I backed off and asked Jayant to lead. He started. But by removing a big chunk of loose rock. I knew its going to be more difficult now. Still he continued. And he did make a progress. But as he tried to move for the 3^rd QD, another rock broke out from his hand hold and went flying down the valley. Damn! It was over. Only hand hold on which we relied for first 2 QDs was gone. And we knew not how loose the rock ahead was.

After an hour long attempt, we rappelled down. A bit disappointed I was but that was again an accepted outcome. Trying till the last resort was commendable. Not attempting at all would have been dishonorable. I recalled Prof. Paramanand’s wisdom to remain always humble in victory and gracious in defeat. I recalled N. K. Mahajan sir’s words, ‘Going from one failure to another without losing enthusiasm for success is excellence.’ Right outer will still be there next time. And so would we.

(Team. left to right: Sanket, Vivek, Jayant, Dinesh)