In Pursuit of Haleem

Ramzan was around the corner and this year too, just like the previous year, I knew I was going to miss haleem. I don’t exactly remember how and when I was told about the glory this famous Hyderabadi Haleem has been carrying since it was first invented. But just a glance at the efforts they put in in its preparation, variety of spices used to offer a distinctive taste, and the way it is decorated with marvelous garnish; I bet as you read, you too by now would have started mouthwatering.

Hyderabadi Haleem is a traditional cuisine consumed mainly during the month of Ramzan by Muslims every evening to break the daylong fast.  Its origin dates back to centuries in Arab culture where Haleem was prepared as a blend of meat and wheat. It was Emperor Nizam who brought the Haleem in Hyderabad. Further introduction of local spices, addition of lentils along with wheat, dry fruit toppings and a spoonful of ghee transformed Haleem into present form of Hyderabadi Haleem. Seeing the unmatched popularity and demand across the globe, Hyderabadi Haleem is the 1st non-veg cuisine to receive Geographical Indication Status in India.

A delicacy with such a historical and religious fame is just 400 miles away from my current location Bangalore.  I had already lost this year’s chance of visiting Hyderabad on the eve of Ramzan as our institute convocation was scheduled just a day after the Ramzan. With the job life barricading me from all sides, there was no time even to think about what was there in night’s meal, let alone Haleem. After a monotonous routine food week after week, one fine night the foodie within me rebelled. So I went out to treat my taste buds on Bangalore’s streets. What caught my eye was a restaurant named ‘Hyderabad Biryani House’ and my almost forgotten desire resurfaced. With a hungry stomach and high hopes of finding what I was craving for since almost a year, I rushed to the restaurant only to hear ‘Sorry! Haleem not available’.

Heavyhearted, I came back home and slept without eating anything. But the next morning, I was so amused to have realized that the city of Haleem isn’t that far. Just an overnight’s journey and Haleem is right there on my table. I made up my mind. Luckily, I was accompanied by a friend Ajinkya who is not only a great foodie but an awesome cook too. Sealed! I decided to go to Hyderabad coming weekend without bothering about the travel expenses. I turned deaf ears to the mockery our friends slammed at us after hearing that we were travelling 400 miles only to eat some non-veg cuisine. But I were haleem-ised totally.

Was it all worth it? Sometimes people are don’t seek logic in doing certain things; instead they listen to their hearts; they just do it; because they love doing things from the bottom of their hearts; however crazy those things might be. I was haleemised completely. 

For everyone, it was going to be a much awaited blissful Sunday, as they could sleep late, wake up late, and then sleep again ignoring the appetite. A movie in the evening and a hangout in a nearby mall or a pub would reenergize them for the next mundane week.  But for me, it was going to be a very special day. Finally on that day, I was going to escape the vicious cycle of lethargy and commonplaces. And roll on to an incredible journey; the magnitude of its contentment only the gourmet within me could apprize.  

The much awaited Saturday night came when I boarded the bus to Hyderabad. The travel company had provided me with such a luxurious hospitality that I was completely flabbergasted. I devoured few biscuit packs and chips while listening to some old Hindi songs and reading short stories of R.K. Narayan. Ajinkya was already into the world of scrummy Haleem. Meanwhile, I called my friend Pranusha who was then in Delhi and told her that I was going to visit her hometown. And to my surprise, she correctly guessed the purpose of the journey... Mother of all foodies!! Coincidently that day she too was in Hyderabad.

Next day early morning, we reached the city of Hyderabad. Hardik came to receive us. Shortly the three of us left home for haleem in a rickshaw. In Hyderabad, rickshaws don’t have tariff meters; even if they do, they would simply refuse to use them. On top of that, they quickly identify the outsiders. So the fare rate negotiation was inevitable. It was hilarious to see Hardik bargaining those Hyderabadi rickshawalas in his Nagpuri accent.

We were getting extremely restless as the traffic had started to show its ugly face. Hordes of rickshaws, busses, cabs and bikes were flowing in and choking even the broadest of the roads in the city. After travelling for almost an hour, we finally reached the Char Minar; a historical monument of national importance. With one eye we admired the historical significance of that ancient watch tower; while with other eye, set in pursuit of the Pista House; a famous place for Hyderabadi Haleem across the globe.

  

By brunch time, we reached Pista House. The eminence of Hyderabadi Haleem was displayed on all the walls inside. Overjoyed, we went inside and asked the manager for Haleem, to which he in his typical Hyderabadi tone said, ‘Hhaleem ra? Aapko Haleem khana?? Toh Ramzan me aata.. Abhi wapas jata..’ He didn’t stop there but continued to mock us. We did not like the way he rudely treated us.

I got furious with his discourteous hospitality. I wanted to blow out the steam but I didn’t utter anything; instead, I politely asked if I could get haleem somewhere else to which he just replied with a wicked grin.

Cursing the so called famous Pista House and our luck; we, not sure of what to do next, were just wandering aimlessly. We googled other haleem vendors across the city and made calls to them. All we could find were only naysayers. Frustration clouded my mind, I imagined all my friends and colleagues, even my boss; to whom I had told about this legendary Haleem trip; laughing over the misfortune I stomached. Shear facepalm.

 

We called Pranusha and told her the situation. We had lost all hopes but she insisted us to wait until she calls back. Within a few minutes, I received from her, the contact details of the restaurant that served Haleem. We were already tired with empty stomachs. So we called the restaurant to confirm the availability. Our luck was with us and we were warmly received by Sitara Grand Hotel. Pranusha`s help was like a pre-monsoon rain shower during the hot summers. We were almost dancing in the middle of the road. It was a moment of triumph!

I remembered the old mountaineering days when the weather was bad, augmented by heavy rains and hailstorms, I thought that the summit was impossible. But unexpectedly a bright sunny day arose, which revitalized my hopes for the summit. The feelings were somewhat similar this time.

All our weariness was replaced by get up-go-get it attitude. By 12:00, we reached the hotel, where the manager welcomed us with the assurance of freshly cooked Hyderabadi Haleem and Paya (another famous goat meat cuisine). It was a buffet lunch with a variety of delicacies. But of all those brilliant culinary items, my eyes were fixed only on Haleem.s I opened the lid of a container and was amazed by the euphoric aroma the Haleem had. I poured two spoonful of ghee over Haleem, topped it with dry fruits and fried onion and rushed to my seat to embark on this much awaited ‘tour de Haleem’. The essence of ilaichi, cinnamon, cloves, and saffron; subtle taste of garlic and lime; jaggery and coconut adding tender sweetness... Everything savored astonishingly brilliant. I still remember the slogan of Manali’s famous Café 1947; it says, “Eating is no choice but taste is” I must confess that what in the plate is easy narrating but what in my mind is just hard explaining.