Mt. Elbrus - Summit Push

Mt. Elbrus ((left) west summit at 5642 m & (right) east summit at 5621 m)

14^th Aug 2016, 23:30 PM

Barrels, Elbrus, Russia 3700 m.

It was a moderate warmth inside our Barrel. But outside it was windy and cold. Hazy lights of Garabhashi station just 200 m above our barrels were the primary navigational tool. And in the midst of subzero temperature of -10 degree celsius (That’s a usual cold on Elbrus at night), assured 35-40 km/hr wind speeds and possible storm towards the end of the day, Anatoli & I had embarked on Elbrus slopes with just enough clothing layers. We packed light and even dressed not that bulky. Slightly bold but more of a risky decision I thought initially. I had a feeling that I could do this. Training for an expedition doesn’t mean just slogging in gyms and running on long trails. It’s a way of life. A routine as simple as cold water baths helped me deal with the shivers and initial hyperventilating phase on the summit push. It didn't make me coldproof but gave confidence to brave the cold.

During our acclimatization treks, every day we had a pleasant and picturesque views of Elbrus. But as soon as we landed at Barrels, the weather began to make ugly faces. Upcoming forecast also showed no signs of sunshine for next 4 days. We were on such a tight schedule that we had no luxury for a rest day before summit attempt. So we had decided to go for the summit despite the conditions were not so favorable. In the evening Krishna had noticed me staring through the window at the dark clouds around west summit. He was equally nervous but he comforted me by patting on my shoulder. For him also this expedition meant no less than special. That moment we decided, however the weather may treat us that night, we would surge in with full swing.

  

Irik Chat Trek (2600 m)

Cheget Peak Trek (3100 m)

Terskol Valley Trek (3200 m)

 A night before summit attempt, Mama had come in my dream. He asked me about my ‘Dukes Nose’ climb and wished me best luck for the next. I called Bhushan and told about this to him. “A good omen”, he said. When uncertainty is hovering so frighteningly and all efforts seem to shatter into just worthlessness at a crucial moment, only positive hopes & blessings can keep the spirit souring. That next one was indeed Elbrus!

There was an option to reach Pastukhova rocks (4800 m) from Barrels (3700 m) via snow cat ( A vehicle like an army vessel that can be maneuvered practically anywhere on the mountain. I was in a dilemma about opting for snowcat. Being an expedition guide, one part of me was telling me to accompany group who had decided to go by snowcat. But the mountaineer within forbid me from doing so. Initially it didn’t really seem principled to me at all. “What are you here for? Climbing expedition or holiday trip?” I stayed adamant on not taking a snowcat and tried to encourage some of the members for not opting the luxury.

Snow Cats generally stationed outside the barrels.

Eventually, Anatoli and I set off at 12:00 on foot, while Irina (Main guide) led the rest of the group at 4:00 AM by Snow cat. Due to popularity and easy access to the mountain, Elbrus too has fallen for commercial aspirations. At barrels, I saw less the climbers but tourists more. Whole idea of mountaineering was getting defeated here. But after thinking for a while I looked at the scenario from an optimistic angle. Climbing the whole route to the summit isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. But the fact that Elbrus is one of the seven summits and relatively easier than the giants like Everest, Aconcagua and Denali; tempts novice adventurers and gives them opportunity to testing their physical limits. So what’s wrong if they take a snowcat up to a certain height and then trek the remaining path to the summit? This may save them from the excruciating struggles of facing harsh winds, nerve chilling colds and 5 hrs of continuous uphill walk which otherwise would simply repel them from the mountains forever. Not everyone wants to be a mountaineer and such summit bid isn’t going to qualify them as mountaineers either. But at least it will encourage them to take more challenges in future and instill affection for the mountains. However, true mountaineers should, in fact WILL stay away from superfluities like these, for only they can appreciate the rewards of being on summit after withstanding the hardships. Be it the cruel winds, numbed fingers and faces marred with snow powders. The feelings after such summit are just ecstatic.

Anatoli was fast. Initially I struggled to keep up the pace. But as I warmed up after walking for 20-25 min, He and I walked side by side.  We reached Priut huts (4000 m) by 1:30 AM for a water break. Both of us had not put on down jackets then. Winds had started blowing slowly. It didn’t feel that cold but still the warmth was long forgotten. Non-stop walk was the key. We needed to reach above Pastukhova rocks before the group arrives. Anatoli led again. I kept stepping into his footmarks. Somewhere around at 4300 m, we stopped for another water break. By now, wind was blowing furiously. And our faces were getting blasted by the loose snow powders. We both realize the need to put on down jackets. In that windy condition, we had to remove down jackets from the ruck sack without letting either of them getting blown off with the winds. I grabbed the sack in my thighs and tried to put on the jacket. It was impossible to do it alone. I clutched the hood in my teeth while Anatoli helped me put it on. Goggles too became inevitable. Quickly we regathered our breaths and continued marching forward.

At 4:00 AM, above Pastukhova Rocks. Lights from Priut Huts in background and the whole valley covered with clouds

It then became even nastier. Never experienced such relentless wind blows before. Snow hit on our faces like bee stings. And we knew not which direction the wind was blowing from. Because it actually blew from fucking everywhere. Only way to avoid it was to crouch and hide under a shelter until it stops. But that was an option we were not privileged to have.  

By around 3:50 AM we reached snow cat station above Pastukhova rocks where the group members were supposed to reach in next 10 minutes (As per plan. Ideally! ). Pastukhova Rocks is a famous landmark at 4800 m. It has a huge rock band exposed on glacier. But snow powder was blowing so rapidly that in the whiteout, even Anatoli was a bit confused if we had passed the rocky structures or not.

4:15 AM. And there was a snow cat roaring over the slopes through the whiteout. But not our group. 4:25. Came yet another snowcat but no familiar faces. I tried to inquire in broken English about Indian group. Negative. At this time the winds were raging so furiously that we had no option but to do push ups, squats, rapid arm movement just to keep the core burning & protect extremities from freezing. Putting up the crampons with three layered gloves was a nightmare. Just standing idle for more than half an hour in those conditions was a risky matter. To make it worse, my fleece facemask due to snow deposition had become hard like fibre panel. And as if this is all the less, there was something unusual that I experienced. Way down somewhere near the Priut Huts, I saw a black object moving and I yelled to Anatoli, “Hey! Snowcat’s coming!” He said he didn’t see anything. But I insisted and tried to point it out to him. But he said he didn’t see anything. I was puzzled that how he could not see what was so clearly visible and moving too! But its only when I tried to look at it closely I realized that it was just an isolated part of Pastukhova rock and my thinking had so badly rambled into believing it as a moving snowcat. I was taken aback. This was unprecedented. Was the poor sleep taking toll on me? Or was that the mental exhaustion of previous days or was it the lack of fuel making me go crazy at such crucial juncture? It was too early to judge but I figured out that I needed to be cautious hence forth. As the group arrived at 4:30 AM, I stuffed some chocolates, gulped down half a thermos of tea and heaved a sigh of relief.

All seemed very excited and energetic for the mission. Now in front of us, laid a 350-400m of 60 degree continuous uphill walk. Except for Sachin, who quit as soon as the trek began, everyone kept the momentum well. Based on individual speeds, three teams got automatically formed. Krishna & Abhijit were walking along with Ira. Dr. Khadilkar & Satish with me while Onkar & Anna were accompanied by Seargy (Fourth guide. Since Sachin was taken down by Anatoli, we had kept Seargy as a backup guide). Occasional glimpse of sun rays would boost up our morale but the winds were just inexorable. By the time we reached 5100 m. Onkar was struggling to even stand on his feet. His small ice axe and inability to balance on steep hard snow made it really difficult for him to walk. I felt really bad for him. I exchanged my longer ice axe with his. Still he couldn’t.

Now the crucial moments were beginning. I couldn’t wait for each and everyone. I had to make the expedition successful. And in such weathers, it was very likely that Ira would take turn around calls. She was an experienced guide and that experience would never allow her to take risks with clients’ lives. As the day grew, visibility instead of improving, had started to worsen. By the time we crossed 5300 m altitude, only 5 of us remained. Ira, I and three members; Krishna, Abhijit & Satish. We were traversing from south face of east summit to the saddle. Flag posts were put up en route to guide trekkers. Ira was moving fast and I had to balance the pace so that I could see Ira and be seen by members behind me. At one point Ira thought of considering a turnaround call. I assured her about the fitness level of the members. On top of that the group size had reduced from 8 to 3. Some of the other groups were also continuing. But most importantly she realized that if she aborted the expedition then and went down when the summit was just 350 m away, we would have surely demanded her to reattempt next day. Eventually the thought of reattempt in situations possibly even worse than that day, kept her going forward.

One and a half hours of westward traverse led us to the saddle between east and west summits. Mind games continued. This time the flags were rotating here and there and misleading me. I was really annoyed. I had to literally wait for a few seconds to comprehend the reality. I tried to keep myself focused by murmuring songs and often hitting myself on my face.

At the end of the saddle, a diagonal walk in North-West direction for around two hours would lead us to the summit. Visibility was still very poor. Walking diagonally on 50- 60 degree angles was not as comfortable as walking in saddle. On top of that, each of us had to cut our own steps as the vociferous winds would sweep the foot prints leaving no traces. Finally at around 13:00, we reached the summit where finding the summit rock becoming an expedition in itself. We roamed for about 15-20 minutes on the platue in search of the summit rock but amidst clouds and snowfall that had just begun, we could not locate it. Ira and other local guides assured and congratulated us for reaching the summit. We could barely take out our cameras but still we managed to capture couple of photos and retreated immediately. 

I was happy not less for my personal summit but more for having led 3 members along with me; having led first ever GGIM international expedition to succeed. I was extremely happy and thankful to our GGIM team, for they trusted me for this job and gave me a chance to exercise my skills and strength. I felt a bit sad as Dr. Khadilkar couldn't. But it was a part of the game and he too accepted it graciously. I thanked Ira for her magnanimous support not just as a professional guide but throughout the expedition, she had been kind to everyone. She has climbing experience of years more than my current age. Yet she made it a point to discuss every single situation with me before taking a final call. She wasn't very happy to attempting in bad weather. But she trusted me and advised me to be careful at nights. And as a junior thats what mattered to me.  Leadership is not about just telling people what to do and what not. Its about inspiring them to step up and do what they otherwise would not have imagined themselves doing.    

After 5 hrs of continuous descend, we reached to the barrels safely. I took my rucksack off the shoulder and through the same window bade farewell to the twins that slowly disappeared into a rainstorm that followed.

At Elbrus Summit on 15th Aug 2016

Group celebrating the successful expedition