Chronicles of Kangchenjunga 4 : THe Basecamp at 18000 ft

 17^th Apr 2019.

 

I woke up in my specious tent with groggy eyes and soured calves. Tent floor was not entirely flat. It was slightly elevated. It made me feel a bit uncomfortable as I kept drifting downside due to gravity and my body subconsciously tried resisting it, not allowing me the peacefulness I truly needed. Nevertheless, it was finally the basecamp. Trekking was over and the real business would soon begin.

It was my first time to experience a luxury of 8000er expedition basecamp. The idea of personal tent was first that I was in awe of. Personally, I like things organised. It gives me more control over things I own. Inside the tent, there was a lot of space where I could store my belonging well. There were neatly arranged thick mattress and a soft pillow – a luxury I had only craved in my previous expeditions, where I had always found myself crammed in a tent full of more men that tent’s capacity, with mattresses whose existence was questionable and for the pillows, I had never seen one.  

I got out and headed straight to the dining tent which was slightly on a lower elevation. A trail was dug in that knee-deep snow deposition to the dining tent. I looked around to see the expanse of the basecamp. The trail from the glacier would end right at the back of our dining tent. In front of our dining tent, was our kitchen tent. There were some more tents like our dining tents and kitchen tents but later I understood that those belonged to other teams. The basecamp was quite a small place as compared to what I had heard of Everest base Camp. We all were hardly 30 climbers from three different agencies. Largest group belonged to our agency and the largest team was Giripremi. Sherpas were around 40; including the 4 route opening Sherpas, individual Sherpa guides, and support members.

The basecamp was situated on the gradual slopes of hillock. Sherpas had arrived here in the last week of March and had made all arrangements. They had created terrace where they could pitch tents. Before our arrival, all the tents were already pitched. They, in the later days, would shine brightly in the background of brownish- grey surface. Circuit of winding trails were created so that anyone could wander anywhere and to any tent without much difficulty. Of course, the snowfall did create troubles initially, but we soon got used to any damn discomfort. Towards the east, in front of Bhushan’s tent, was our basecamp temple. Series of long prayer flags were attached from temple to different directions. The colours of the flags indeed brought some sense of vividness in those gloomy morning hours.

Finju dai came to greet us with hot tea and the cook stove as heater. One after the other everyone got up and assembled in the tent for breakfast. Tiredness was distinct on everyone’s face. We finished our breakfast and morning chores and began to ponder on next plans. It was quite difficult to figure out where to start from. Outside, it was all mess and the so-called luxuries of basecamp, like generator for electricity, heaters, warm dome shaped tent, where we were to watch movies, were nowhere to be found.

Bhushan and Rupesh struggled for quite some time to start the engine. Soon entire team and the kitchen staff joined in as if the sole purpose of that day was to ignite the spark and sustain it. Meanwhile, we set up the dome tent on a platform which in previous expeditions was a helipad.

The next two days were spent in setting up the essentials of basecamp. We informed mama about the generator situation. Mama spoke to our agency back in Kathmandu and asked them to arrange for alternative ones.

 

In couple of days, mama arrived at basecamp by chopper. As soon as he arrived, he took control of entire haphazard situation at basecamp and one by one he began to fix them. Within a day, I sensed the atmosphere dramatically changing at basecamp. New generators arrived; heaters ensured much more warmth than our expectations. Series of cuisines began to occupy spaces on our dining table. Most importantly, the movie theatre was launched in full swing. We also set up a small temple inside our dome tent. A small statue of Lord Ganesha and a photo frame of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj was placed. The weather too improved gradually and the basecamp, which 4-5 days ago welcomed us as like a haunted crematory, suddenly turned into a bustling village full of energy and positivity.    

 

Some climbers had opted to fly to basecamp from Tseram instead of trudging the arduous trail for three days. Its quite a debatable topic which of the two was more ethical. Those who flew to basecamp, spent 3-4 days acclimating upto 4500 m altitude and rested well at Tseram’s cosy huts at 3700 m. When they flew directly to basecamp at 5500 m, they did suffer some mild headache but soon recover. Those who trekked the difficult trail and steadily gained the altitude, suffered some energy loss but managed to get acclimated very well. Initially I didn’t find it appropriate to use chopper but then I thought, nothing is wrong in coming up to basecamp by whichever means you use. What matters is how you climb above the basecamp. Our Giripremi team chose the latter and we thoroughly enjoyed its discomfort and the thrill. We carry a bag full of incredible memories, which others have surely missed.      

 

Once Mama arrived, he assumed the charge not just of Giripremi team but also entire basecamp. Everyone would approach him for advice. For Sherpas, he was indeed a fatherly figure, but other western climbers too would quite humbly greet him and seek his guidance.

On 24^th Apr, we had planned our first acclimatization height gain. In the Himalayan mountains, it is an unspoken rule that no one should step on the mountain slope before the Pooja Ceremony. Sherpas are quite religious by heart. The essence of pooja is to seek her forgiveness before we ascend on her slopes with crampons, ice ax, pitch tents, fix ropes, thus damaging her very own pristine space. We appeal mountain goddess for allowing us to climb up to her top and descend back safely. It is her unquestionable authority; a man must submit. Listen to her command, respect it as she will let us climb only in her best moods.

One of our guides, Tenzing Sherpa, who was a lama too, performed pooja. At the platform, Sharpas had arranged a statue of Buddha; numerous Photos and small idols of other gods were placed. A small lantern was placed in the corner with glass shield on it. Plenty of incense sticks were burnt creating a fragrant ambiance for the ceremony. We were to worship our hardware as well as high altitude clothing, which would protect us during our ascend to the top and return safely. Platform was garnished with variety of fruits, desserts, and wine. Mama mentioned that in early expeditions, Sherpas used to serve locally made rice wine but now-a-days, modern Sherpas serve branded wine and rum too. These food items were to be served as holy food (Prasaad & teertha) to be consumed after the pooja. I had read about alcohol being served as a holy drink. It was however, fascinating to see Coca-cola, candies, biscuits, chocolates being quite systematically placed in front of the mountain as Prasad (holy food). Anand and I would light the lantern and bow before the gods at breakfast times; a ritual we never missed a single day.

Very next day, we got ready for a hike up the slopes. Our goal was to reach Camp 1 and comeback. Geared up with Harness, carabiners, Jumar, descender, Helmet, goggles, self-anchor, boots and crampons; we left the camp. Two Sherpas accompanied us. Initially it was cloudy but as we continued ascending, the weather began to get clearer. After walking through the rocks and snow patches, we reached the crampon point in 20-30 min. From this point, Sherpas had fixed the ropes. Our first hurdle was right at the crampon point. An ice wall with almost 90-degree slope. It silently warned us to be prepared for extensive jumaring up the mountain. We negotiated the wall with quite ease and began jumaring up on moderate slope. At times, the slope was exposed with to me personally, I found it a bit tiring initially. However, I saw Ashish, Bhushan, Bhagwan ramming up the slope comfortably. There was no way I could match up to their speeds. However, with hard lessons of past, I knew that I must listen to my own body and take time to adjust rather than trying to go harder. I knew if I do this hike well and let my body acclimate, summit push will be far easier. Within 2 hrs we reached a plateau at 6050 m. From here, we saw a steep face, under the frightening roof of an ice wall, which led to lower camp 1. We decided to spend some time at plateau and descend to basecamp. Thus, our first acclimatization rotation finished.

Next few days we spent at basecamp. Uneventful from the climbing perspective but enriching experiences from the life at basecamp point of view. Our routine at basecamp was relaxed on idle days. Most of us would spend watching movies, tv series as the generator had become our best amenity. Our evening hangout place was the helipad from where, vast Yalung glacier could be seen. At times, we would hang out with other western climbers. Everyone’s central topic of discussion used to be the weather updates. Everyone was interested to know what weather updates each team has; whose updates are accurate; who is telling the truth and who’s misleading. Yeah! It happens. Procuring the vital information from others and hiding our precious one from everyone is a common business at basecamp. We were lucky to have Ganesh and Avinash, who would daily analyse the weather patterns in detail, and share us their findings.  In 8000er expeditions, especially one like Kj, stakes are quite high and negligence, unpreparedness, can lead to failures. Weather plays a dominant role in deciding the success. Hence, leader’s decisions are significantly dependant on his understanding of the weather and ability to take wise calls in time. Every day, I observed Mama, Bhushan, Rupesh working on Ganesh’s findings and redrawing the strategies for subsequent movements.  Thanks to technological development that even in those extreme remote places, we were able to connect to civilizations and gain vital knowledge for advancements. Such sophisticated satellite internet services are not always available. I recalled my days in CB13 reattempt, when just before I left Manali town, for reattempt, Ganesh had sent me screenshots of weather reports for next four days. I didn’t have network after Manali and hence I had to rely upon those screenshots hoping that the predictions wouldn’t change. Thankfully, the weather too had conspired to be on my side that day.

Mama is quite a philanthropic person by nature. Not just for the team members, not just for the Sherpas, but he would think about their families too. After the pooja, he had rounded all our Sherpa team of total 15 members and 5 assistants. He handed over envelops with cash to each Sherpa as per his level and insisted to utilise that for their family welfare. He gifted each one with GGIM caps and t shirts. It was his way of being generous at the same time ensuring that the Sherpas remain happy always. He always said that if they are happy and you show respect towards them, care about them, then they will work even harder for you and walk with you as if your shadow, look after you in adversities and at times put themselves in jeopardy for your safety.

We celebrated members as well as Sherpas birthdays with equal enthusiasm. One of the birthdays was of our very own Finjudai. He was our chief chef when it came to birthday parties. He had his special recipe for making delicious Brownies, decorated with soft white cream. He would write every birthday boy’s name on it and present it at dining table. While we would be busy feasting on cakes, he would have already rushed back to the kitchen for dinner preparations. Such was Finjudai. Caring, loving, modest, & passionate for cooking. We all had immense respect for this true gentleman.

One day, when we were finished with the breakfast, we heard a loud thundering noise. Generally, at basecamp we often heard thundering sounds of avalanches from surrounding mountains, but this noise felt very close and, hence threatening. Everyone rushed out to see what had happened. We learnt that an Oxygen cylinder had basted. Further we learnt that one of the Sherpas had stored 3-4 Oxygen cylinders in his tent. Due to sunny weather, the pressure inside the cylinder shot to the levels that it blasted out shattering the tent, sleeping bags, clothing into pieces… At the site, there was nothing to be found but feathers from sleeping bag, torn outers of tent and damaged equipment. Thankfully, Dawa Sherpa, whom the tent belonged, was not in the tent when the incident occurred. I couldn’t imagine the scene had he been inside the tent. When he arrived, he broke in tears and was completely flabbergasted. We all were shocked. Small error like storing cylinders inside sun-baked tents could have cost a life that day.

I had found my special spot for myself right in front of the kitchen. A big rock in a shape of a plank, would rise above all the nearby tents. As I climbed it up from one end, I had my entire mini basecamp world under my sight. It was my pride rock like the one in the lion king movie! At times I would sit on top of it, watching over the camp, reading books, humming songs, or just recalling my beloveds back home.

Giripremi had taken an initiative to open the route for all teams. Generally, in celebrated expeditions like Everest, all agencies come together and contribute in opening the route for the expedition. Everest due to its status, attracts many climbers. All the climbers contribute their share for the same. Hence, the process of route opening is smooth and almost assured. However, that’s not the case in expeditions other than Everest. Kangchenjunga had been infamously known for consecutive colossal failures as the route wasn’t open. In expeditions as remote and daunting as Kangchenjunga, no one would dare to attempt it, unless the route is entirely opened. Additionally, uncertain weathers had made it even difficult to climb Kangchenjunga. After successive failures since 2014, it was in 2018, that the mountain was climbed. Mama’s observation was that, in 2018, one of the teams at basecamp, had taken the onus of opening the route, and they didn’t wait for any other teams to contribute or even support in the process. They paid their Sherpas well and ensured route opens. Mama had noticed the importance of this crucial factor in making the expedition successful in 2018. In our expedition, he appointed a special team of 4 sherpas as route openers. It brought significant additional financial burden on Giripremi, but this was an investment which Mama knew would bring fortune.

Thus, these Sherpas fix the rope on the mountain and anchor it at numerous intermediate points with the help of technical equipment such as snow bars, ice screws, rock pitons etc. sometimes they even use natural anchors such as large boulder as a solid, bombproof anchor. Later I learnt that around 13000 ft. length rope was fixed, over 100 ice screws and 200 snow bars were used in this herculean route opening process. Mama used to keep a track of route opening progress. It was a challenging task to open the route. While opening the route, Sherpas had to climb up with tents, ropes, technical hardware, fuel, food, Oxygen cylinders. It was a job of the most experienced and highly skilled individuals.

Dinesh’s team of trekkers had arrived in Tseram and one of the participants, Dr. Yasmin Mirza was to arrive at basecamp by chopper for a quick visit. The weather was sunny but a bit windy that day. When she arrived, she was totally stunned to see the surroundings. Never in her life she had been to such extreme altitudes, extreme remoteness, extreme colds, and yet she found a sense of warmth in our greetings at basecamp. She could barely take 3-4 steps before pausing for a few gasps of air. She was overwhelmed by the elegant beauty of the mountains, hospitality at basecamp, and the ease with which we had assumed this wilderness as our home for over 40 days. She stayed with us for around an hour and after having breakfast, immediately boarded the first chopper that left basecamp. However, while going back she handed over to us something that made our day and perhaps turned out to be the most emotional moment of entire expedition.

Chandankaka, back in Pune came up with a brilliant idea of sending letters from families to the team at basecamp via Dr. Yasmin Mirza. When Dr. Mirza left, we were quite eager to know if we there are any letters, notes, sketches from our families. Mama gathered everyone in the dining tent. It was going to be a ceremonial programme of reading letters in public. No one was awkward nor any signs of hesitations. One after the other, letters, sketches, photos, poems began to surface on the table. Everyone read letters and everyone listened to them. As we read letters, saw photos, & sketches, we could feel our close ones talking to us in their own voices. Aai-papa spoke to me through their kind words and blessed all of us for our dreams. Salonee! Her maturity in handling our relationship so smoothly, despite being so away for so many days, I realised how badly she missed me, and yet she had happily accepted the distance and stood firmly by my side. That day I realised what it meant to be a father; whose son is out on a mission similar to a war like mission. Pappa’s heart would be full of pride to see his son in pursuit of his dreams. My mother, so closely she had been a witness to my mountaineering journey from fumbling baby steps of trekking to confident march towards Kj so far. How delighted she would be! To support my expedition, she was to participate in Annapurna Base Camp trek which was scheduled in first week of May. What else can there be more inspiring than to see your family actively backing your goals. Salonee, my sweetheart. First person I shared the news of my selection in Kj team, was her. A year before the expedition, we met for the first time when, our relationship kindled in the laps of Kangchenjunga national park. She had come for Basic Mountaineering Course, at HMI Darjeeling and I was leading a trek; both were in Kangchenjunga region. It wouldn’t be wrong if I say that the mountain goddess was the first and sole witness to our beautiful union. How memorable would the moment be to receive her letter in the same region!

Entire day I spent reading the letters again and again. Never in my life I had missed anyone so much. Never I had valued the importance of any relation as much as I did then. That day changed my perspective towards relationships. I became more aware about not just holding the relations but also taking efforts in cherishing them. Even as I write this now, my eyes are moist, and heart overwhelmed. We are humans and we tend to attach with others; but our lives are meaningful only if we respect the bonds with our close ones. I wasn’t in any mood to talk, eat, or even sleep. With teary eyes, I placed those letters in my vest pocket, that I would carry with me to the top of Kj.

Sumit was Giripremi’s expedition doctor. At EBC, there is a group of dedicated doctors (Himalayan Rescue Association), who work voluntarily to provide medical facilities to the climbers. However, at Kj, there wasn’t any such facility. Absence of any designated doctor and medical facilities, forced sumit to assume the role of doctor for everyone at Kj basecamp. Every day, someone from Sherpa team would show up with minor illness or pain. Initially it all sounded quite an altruistic job but later turned out to be a headache. Sherpas began to enjoy the taste of Sumit’s ayurvedic medicines. Apart from that, cough syrup was their favourite for obvious reasons. So, every day, Sherpas would show up and pretend as if they are unwell and request particularly for cough syrup. Forget Sherpas, when other foreign climbers found out the existence of able doctor with unlimited medicinal supplies, even they began to pay visits very often. One of the climbers came with a unique illness. ‘Doctor, if I cover up myself in my sleeping bag, I start sweating, and if I don’t, then I get cold. Please treat me with this’, said the climber. Not even Gods could do anything. Let alone Doctor. Since that day, whenever we spot him coming towards our tent, we would signal doctor about his arrival and doctor would pretend to sleep. It happened two- three times and finally he stopped coming to our tent. However, mama struck with an idea. He set up a dedicated tent and stored all medicines and apparatus in it. Sumit would daily begin his OPD for all basecamp residents on a charity basis.

8000ers is a game of immense patience and until any favourable weather forecast, it wasn’t suitable to go up for second rotation. But staying idle for whole day didn’t seem appealing to over enthusiastic and fitness freaks like Rupesh, Jitu, and I. So, Rupesh took an initiative to do daily core body workout and Anand ensured that everyone goes out for a long walk for better acclimatization. Simple workouts proved to be of great help as they ensured strength and stability for core muscles. It is important to remember that when at altitude, you shouldn’t do any strenuous physical training but a 10 min daily core workout & half an hour stroll around the basecamp on idle days is an assured way to enhancing the success rates. One of the bright sunny days, Rupesh and I headed all the way to the glacier to collect the glacial water samples as a part of Eco project work. Three hours of hike was a refresher course after the first rotation.  

We were now getting ready for another rotation. Generally, climbers perform three rotations till camp-1, camp-2, and camp-3 with an interval of around 3-4 rest days in between. It only adds more logistical challenges, loss of energy, loss of limited resources; and, no further acclimatization gains. Now-a-days, theory says that an overnight stay at 6000 + altitude is enough to get used to extreme heights and whatever acclimatization has to occur, it occurs below 6000 m. Anything above is deterioration. Hence, one should avoid spending excess time above 6000 m and acquire acclimatization at lower altitude. However, from experience and getting to know the terrain, at least one rotation till 6500 m would prove effective. Thus, we decided to stay couple of nights at camp 2 (6300 m) and hike up till 6500 m before finishing the second rotation.

28^th Apr 2019, Rotation 2

After having the breakfast and packed lunch, we began our ascent. This time, we had to stay up at camp 2 for two nights. So, two days before, we had properly segregated ration, fuel, and camping gears for the rotation. We also carried our extra warm clothing and instant energy food items to cache at C-2 for the final summit push.

Till the Plateau at 6000 m, the trail was quite familiar, and we walked quite comfortably. From the plateau, just 30-35 metres ahead, rose a steep face and at its top, was a daunting roof of hanging glacier. Like a vulture sitting at the top of a cliff waiting for its prey to succumb, that obscure looking ice structures, continuously hovered over our heads. I was taking photographs and making videos while being arrested on Jumar, but my mind was always preoccupied with existence of those scary icy walls above our heads.

Very recently, I had read a book on K2, and in that book, author Ed Vestures had narrated a tragic story of K2 climb in 2008. During that expedition, a few climbers had died as the hanging glacier on the way to summit push, collapsed, taking the victims along with it beyond oblivion. Here, we were walking right underneath the hanging ice walls, which could collapse at any time just as it happened in that K2 expedition.  Thankfully nothing came shooting down at us and we reached to the bottom of hanging glacier. Continuous uphill climb at an angle of 60-65, turned to the left inside the icy maze. It was all blue ice on right side, and crevasses on left, the magnitude of their depth, size, and structure was just unfathomable. It was as if we had entered inside jaws of a monster. Our only hope was 10 mm fixed rope to which we all were attached. Very soon we came out at the top of the glacier from where we could spot tiny yellow dots of basecamp. Long ago, while trekking to the basecamp I had seen a similar sight of yellow dots. At that time, they were watching me over from above. This time however, I was overseeing them.  

Now here I faced my biggest threat. Crossing the ladders over a crevasse. Additionally, the crevasse was at the top of the glacier, where wind was blowing at a speed enough to half my confidence levels. On both sides of the ladder, ropes are fixed, to which we attach our self-anchors. We must hold the ropes tight and put our feet precisely on the horizontal bars of the ladder. While placing the foot, you must pay attention to your foot placement and this is where first timers tremble out of fear. Dark, bottomless, and calm crevasse, with its jaws wide open, lies beneath your feet as you cross the ladder. A minor imbalance and you would be found hanging upside down. If fail to anchor and lock the carabiners properly, it might lead further to a fatal accident. I was extremely scared. I asked Anand to guide me well and keep a watch over me until I safely cross it. Pasang dai too, showed gentleness as he patted on my back while Anand guided me at each step. Just 5-6 steps, but it was my scariest of the experiences so far. Finally, I crossed it.

Right after the ladder point, there was lower camp 1, where just one tent was pitched. It was an emergency refugee shelter for those who might stuck in bad weather. Higher camp 1 (6300 m) was pitched another 100-150 m above. It was a gradual uphill climb and involved crossing another small crevasse. This time however, I managed to cross it comfortably. From Camp 1, we could spot Camp 2. Unlike traditional mountaineering systems where Camp 2 is expected to be at higher altitude than camp 1, at Kj, camp 2 is at lower altitude than camp 1. Further, the distance between Camp 1 and Camp 2 wasn’t much. Just a matter of one hr -one and a half hr. Hence, we had decided to go directly to Camp 2 (6200 m).  

Though less distance to camp 2, appeased us a bit, we were to face yet another enemy of mountaineers. The rockfall. It was so notorious that we had in detailed studied in Pune about how to tackle this problem. As we moved further, we first descended into a new valley on the opposite side of the basecamp. The descend wasn’t much hardly 100 m. and camp -2 was at similar levels. But a treacherous rock fall terrain was a hurdle.  

The traverse was a narrow trail through moraine, ice, and rocks. So, it was difficult to manoeuvre through them. On left side, was the rock wall towers capped with hard ice, and on left beneath, was a huge field full of crevasses.  At times we had to rappel down and then climb up again. Though they were short rocky pitches, it was difficult to climb up again on the rocks with crampons. Finally, we reached in front of the rockfall section. As Bhushan, Anand, Bhagwan made their move, series of cricket ball sized rocks rolled over from above. Bhushan and Anand both experienced in dealing rockfalls, showed presence of mind and swiftly ran through the danger zone. It was a nerve wrecking moment to see those canons shooting from above. One by one we all crossed without any trouble. We had to literally sprint those 30 m to the large boulder which offered safe zone. After that short sprint, rest for 10 min was unavoidable. Within 20 more minutes, after crossing the crevasse field, we were in a large football field sized ground. Just 500 m ahead our camp 2 was pitched. We were in a cwm (), surrounded by large mountains on all sides. Right in front of us, at far distance, she stood tall behind the impregnable ice fall fortress.

At higher camps, tents are shared by three members. Anand, Prasad, and I were the tentmates as we were in Rameche and middle camp.  We had reached by 3:00 PM. Egg burji and roti tasted heavenly. Sherpas dug a trench in the snow and created a temporary kitchen. Three stoves would run in parallel to serve hot meals to everyone. Just 30-35 m farther to the campsite, existed yellow area. These are fundamental aspects of camping be it in Sahyadri or in the extreme Himalayas. We must ensure safe and hygienic camping grounds.

We were tired of long march. Our guides served us some soup and dal-khichadi for dinner at 6:00. Finishing our meals, we tucked inside our sleeping bags for a much needed sleep. This was my highest altitude gain so far and I was a bit apprehensive of how my body would respond. Fortunately, I was in my best shape ever. Generally, I get mild headaches or nausea at times, but this time I was in just too perfect health conditions that there wasn’t even a slight dip in energy, and enthusiasm, let alone any signs of illness.

Next day, we began our hike at 6:30 AM towards camp 3. Our aim was to touch camp 3 and return but as we began to walk, our speed slowed dramatically due to altitude as well as baking effect which usually happens in cwm. Generally, one expects it to be very cold in snowy high-altitude conditions. But if the weather is clear and the sun is bright, additionally, you are walking in a region where you are surrounded by tall snowy white mountains, there is significant light reflection and heat trapping inside the cwm. It leads to significant rise in temperature. At times the temperature rises up to 35 degree Celsius. One gets thirsty very quickly.  However, water is scares as you need to cook ice for hours to make water. So in such conditions, dehydration becomes a serious problem.

We walked steadily through the icefall. It was a huge labyrinth of ice blocks and crevasses. Such a challenging job it is to open a route through this deadly field. Hats off to the skills, experience, and incredible fitness of the Sherpas, who so skilfully find safest route for all climbers. It is solely due to their remarkable contribution that we all could make our ways to the top. One should never disparage Sherpas, and always remain grateful to their matchless support in Himalayan expeditions.

After a while we realised that camp 3 was way higher than what we had anticipated. Reaching up and coming back same day was not possible. Of course, we had to reach back to camp 2 well in time. So, we hiked up to 6500 m, spent some time rehydrating ourselves and walked back to camp 2.

It was a confidence booster. All were in great shape. We stayed in our tents chit-chatting and laughing till the dusk. Anand is a storyteller with limitless stock of interesting and funny stories. And Prasad is a filler with prompt comments making them a perfect entertaining duo. Next day we descended back to basecamp. We planned to cross the rockfall region before 8:00 AM. Generally, the rocks and the ice walls are stable till the sun is up. Once the temperature rises, snow- ice melting process, destabilizes the loose rocks, which leads to rock falls. By 11:00 AM, we arrived safely at basecamp. Mama welcomed us at the temple. We bowed before the mountain and retired in our personal tents. Thus, our second rotation was over. We would go up for the final march. The summit push. All we needed was a weather window and assurance of complete route fixing till the top.